Vetiver is a profoundly earthy note with dry, woody facets that recall a soft, smoky warmth. It is an intense, grounding scent with surprising undertones of mildew and even grapefruit. For the perfume fan that loves the earthy smell of the woods, nothing beats vetiver. Vetiver is grass whose roots create a smoky, mossy, mineral scent when distilled. It is one of the most complex ingredients found in fragrance, with over 150 separate aromatic compounds, and it also acts as one of the best fixatives available to perfumers, which accounts for its frequent presence in fragrance. There’s also nothing quite like the scent of vetiver. It’s both immediate and ancient, with a similar smell to the soft earth of virgin forests.

An excellent link between heart notes and base notes, the woody, balsamic facets of guaiac wood add depth with an air of smoky, leathery intrigue. Less dry than cedarwood and harder than sandalwood, guaiac wood is sweet and stable with rose-like facets.

Pepper’s hot, spicy attack can focus the drama in a perfume instantly. It’s dry, tangy, nose-crinkling personality sharpens other notes in a fragrance and boosts their olfactory signal. Black pepper is best with leather, suede, and tobacco. Black pepper also heightens lighter citrus notes like lemon, lime, orange, green apple, and citron. Pink pepper is best in aromatic or floral blends, where it’s warm, fruity facets can bring an airy white floral perfume into focus, or underline masculine notes such as lavender, basil, musk, etc. Pepper’s insistent heat can be worn either day or night, and it’s fruity/spicy shadow makes it ideal for any season.

Labdanum (pron. Lab-DuH-numb) is a sticky, brown resin distilled from the rockrose plant found in the Mediterranean. It’s sweet, thick, smokiness lends a spicy backbone to Oriental style perfumes, and combines well with leather and other heavy spices. Labdanum is also one of the best “fixatives” in perfume, making other notes last longer and smell stronger in a composition. If your favorite scents are smoke, vanilla, caramel, black rubber, or peppery spice - labdanum’s unique scent will appeal to you. Labdanum scents are best for colder weather, and reveal their smoky-sweet mystery the most in evening fragrances.