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Ambergris
En overraskende afrodisiakum, ambra har været brugt som en slags elskovsdrik i fin parfumeri i årtusinder. Dens forførende erotiske virkning matches af dens evne til at fungere som et unikt fikseringsmiddel: den giver volumen og forstærkning til en duft og blødgør eller binder den sarte balance mellem aromaer efter en omhyggelig maceration i 96% alkohol.
I dag erstattes ambra ofte af syntetiske produkter (såsom Ambroxan, Ambrox eller Orcanox) på grund af dens exceptionelt høje pris og relative upålidelighed med hensyn til produktion, indkøb og tilgængelighed.
Ambra har en næsten mytisk status blandt parfumører, og dens evne til at smelte sammen med hud og duft på en næsten levende måde gør den til en af de mest eftertragtede ingredienser i finparfumeriets historie.
Varm, gennemtrængende, mosset, animalsk note med tobak, marine og pudrede accenter.
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Historie
The unique properties of ambergris have aroused our interest for millennia. In the 10th century BC, the Chinese mythicized ambergris to be the spittle of dragons who slept peacefully on rocks by the sea, making their presence known only by the mysterious substance they left washed up along the shore. Known for its erotic powers as an aphrodisiac and kaleidoscopic influences as a psychoactive, the French used ambergris throughout the Middle Ages as a key ingredient in pomanders (“pomme d’ambre”). A symbol of elegance, the pomander was a ball made for perfumes that could be worn or carried in a vase by the fragrance dilettante. The mystical prowess surrounding ambergris inspired pomander-adorners to believe they were protected from the pervasive likes of miasma and could thus ward off plague or infection.
Produktion
Despite its esteemed role as an upmarket fixative for luxury fragrances, ambergris has a rather crude origin story: commonly thought to be expelled from either the mouth or bottom-end of sperm whales, ambergris is the natural result of a process of accretion. In a bid to protect their intestines from the sharp “beaks” of giant squid and cuttlefish, sperm whales naturally secrete the highly coveted substance. Once expelled, ambergris must stay in sea water for a lengthy period before developing its characteristic scent. And yet, the process has only just begun: once collected, ambergris must dry for 2–3 years before it can begin macerating in 96% alcohol to produce a dye at about 3%, which must then mature for another 12–18 months. Given its excessive price tag and lengthy production period, fragrance houses may find themselves out of pocket while they wait.
Vidste du?
Often described as one of the world’s strangest natural occurrences, ambergris has captured our attention—and pockets—with its unique and mythicized properties. Today, ambergris is more than worth its weight in gold, fetching up to $40,000 a kilogram. In 1913, one of the largest ever recorded pieces of ambergris was discovered and sold in London, weighing a whopping 160 kilos. Ambergris has a myriad of unique properties, including the ability to act as an aphrodisiac. A study conducted by Kind Saud University found that ambrein, a major constituent of ambergris, modified the sexual behavior of male rats by increasing their libido.
