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Iris
Iris
Best paired with violet or intoxicating mimosa, iris is a somewhat subtle, soft and sensual note. A high-brow note reserved for only the finest accords perfumery has to offer, iris is renowned for its steep price tag. In fact, iris could well be the priciest ingredient in a perfumer’s arsenal. And for good reason: its floral, powdery facets lend an unmatched elegance and air to fragrances.
Iris imbues a scent with gorgeous melancholy- its “wet sidewalk in the rain” scent imparts a sense of nostalgia and depth to a floral perfume. The aroma of iris is similar to violets, only not as sweet - it’s full-bodied, powdery, and plush with a slightly mineral/metallic accent. Iris is at its best in demure, thoughtful florals where its mesmerizing intimacy is featured alongside violet, peony, rose, jasmine, and soft spicy notes.
Woody-green, powdery, soft, floral, refined, close to the scent of the violet, warm and persistent.
GreeceItalyMoroccoIndiaFloral
Historie
The iris has a rich history throughout different cultures. In Greek mythology, Iris was the messenger to the Gods, most notably to Hera, Zeus' wife, who adored Iris for always bringing her good news. Iris took the form of a graceful young girl embellished with brightly colored wings displaying the colors of the rainbow. To mortals, she actually appeared in the form of a rainbow as she delivered them their divine messages. It is Iris' association with rainbows that earned them the poetic nickname Scarf of Iris. The iris flower itself played a role in Egyptian mythology as it was linked to the gods Osiris and Horus. There is even an iris engraved into the foreheads of the Egyptian sphinxes to represent Horus.
Produktion
Though native to the Far East, iris is predominately grown in Italy and Morocco today. Absolute iris comes from a volatile solvent extraction of crushed roots. This process starts after three years of growth, when the roots are peeled, washed and dried in the sun or an oven at a moderate temperature, while the rhizomes are processed all year, dried in an oven at 40-degrees for two years. They take on a violet scent thanks to ketones called irones. In the next step, they are crushed and steam-distilled to create iris butter, sometimes also referred to as concrete. With such a lengthy, complicated extraction process and low-yield, the high prices are understandable, with the Iris Padilla variety fetching more than 100,000 euros-per-kilogram! The yield of crushed rhizomes accounts for 0.2-0.4%. Absolute is created when the fatty acids are eliminated through the purification process.
Vidste du?
Powdered rhizomes are used both in talcum powder and face powders. The iris derives its rich scent from containing a large quantity of irones, the scent of violet. This fragrance is said to have a positive effect on behavior. The flower's petals change texture and shimmer, thus inspiring the word iridescent.
