Vetiver is a profoundly earthy note with dry, woody facets that recall a soft, smoky warmth. It is an intense, grounding scent with surprising undertones of mildew and even grapefruit. For the perfume fan that loves the earthy smell of the woods, nothing beats vetiver. Vetiver is grass whose roots create a smoky, mossy, mineral scent when distilled. It is one of the most complex ingredients found in fragrance, with over 150 separate aromatic compounds, and it also acts as one of the best fixatives available to perfumers, which accounts for its frequent presence in fragrance. There’s also nothing quite like the scent of vetiver. It’s both immediate and ancient, with a similar smell to the soft earth of virgin forests.

Lemon’s zingy, zesty, sunshine-bright enthusiasm brings a happy, energetic feel to a fragrance. It’s an ideal note for summer wear, especially in the most humid weather. It’s also one of the freshest and most invigorating opening notes in a scent, and it pairs well with light floral and softly spiced fragrances. Lemon makes a fantastic office or workout scent, with it’s brisk acidity and puckery power. It is wearable day or night, but makes its best impression in fresh, light, effervescent perfumes meant for refreshing your senses.

A surprising aphrodisiac, ambergris has been used as a quasi-love potion in fine perfumery for millennia. Its beguilingly erotic effect is matched by its ability to act as a unique fixative: giving volume and amplification to a fragrance, and softening or binding the delicate balance of aromas after a considered process of maceration in 96% alcohol. Nowadays, ambergris is often replaced by synthetic products (such as Ambroxan, Ambrox or Orcanox) due to its exceptionally high price tag and relative unreliability in terms of production, sourcing and accessibility.

Juniper