Smoke Show

Oud is a very popular essence among the Persian Gulf countries. Across Arabia, men and women are known to dote over the raw material—admiring the lavish fragrance for all its warmth and complexity. In fact, oud is so popular in Arabian fragrances that there exists several subfamilies of oud (such as fruit oud, leather oud, rose oud—and the list goes on!). Agarwood, or oud, is the most expensive note in a perfumer’s palette. It has been valued for thousands of years and is considered one of the most luxurious ingredients in the world of perfumery. Oud is derived from the dark resin of the Agar tree, which grows in very rare conditions. Although its popularity skyrocketed in the past decade, oud has been known and used by various ancient civilizations in esoteric ceremonies and meditation practices for hundreds of years. Perfect for cold weather, oud has a distinctively woody, slightly animalic, and rich scent. Oud’s warmth adds whole new brevity and depth when combined with floral or spicy notes.

Definitively spicy, saffron adds an energizing burst to both feminine and masculine fragrances. It’s an endlessly luxurious note of warm, leathery facets. Particularly evocative of smooth suede, saffron evokes an intimate feeling: soft, and yet slightly bitter. As the most expensive spice in the world, saffron is a well-known perfumery ingredient that is also called “red gold”. In ancient times, it was used as a single-ingredient fragrance reserved only for the highest members of society. Although modern perfumers are not reluctant to spotlight its earthy, hay-like, sweet aroma on its own, they are more interested in exploring its partnership with leather, spice, and amber notes. The fragrances that feature saffron are rich, opulent, and enticing, making them perfect special occasion or date night picks.

Vetiver is a profoundly earthy note with dry, woody facets that recall a soft, smoky warmth. It is an intense, grounding scent with surprising undertones of mildew and even grapefruit. For the perfume fan that loves the earthy smell of the woods, nothing beats vetiver. Vetiver is grass whose roots create a smoky, mossy, mineral scent when distilled. It is one of the most complex ingredients found in fragrance, with over 150 separate aromatic compounds, and it also acts as one of the best fixatives available to perfumers, which accounts for its frequent presence in fragrance. There’s also nothing quite like the scent of vetiver. It’s both immediate and ancient, with a similar smell to the soft earth of virgin forests.

Intense, piquant, and oh-so-fresh, pink pepper adds an unmatchable spiciness to accords, and is often used in fine perfumery. The nose-tingling crispness of pink peppercorns is only matched by its unique fruity facets—sometimes described as being citrus-like.